Keratin treatment – how it works

Brazilian keratin treatment is a protein based treatment that claims to temporarily leave your hair smoother and straighter without those nasty chemicals used in permanent straightening. There are actually a variety of treatments out there, but they tend to work using the same basic principle: your hair is coated with a keratin solution which is then bonded to the hair temporarily using other chemicals and heat, forming a protective layer.

If you head to the salon for a Brazilian keratin treatment, you’ll first have your hair washed thoroughly to remove any residue. After a thorough blow dry, the keratin solution is applied to your dry hair and then left on for a while to do its thing. Next up, your hair is blow dried and straightened using very hot straighteners, with the keratin lotion still coating your hair .. once that’s done you’re good to go!

© Subbotina Anna – Fotolia.com

These treatments are described as safe to use on damaged or chemically treated hair, in fact its said that the rougher, open cuticle of processed hair allows the keratin solution to bond particularly well with the hair.

You’re usually advised to avoid washing your hair for around three days after having the treatment, and also not to put your hair up or do anything that might distort its newly straightened shape in this time. Sodium shampoos are a no-no too, probably as this ingredient can break down the keratin coating that’s (hopefully!) left your hair beautifully smooth. Brazilian keratin treatments are a semi-permanent process, so remember that you will need to keep going back to the salon every few months or so to top up and re-tame your hair.

A look in more detail …

So how exactly does this Brazilian keratin hair straightening treatment work? Chemically speaking, it’s thought that ‘aldehydes’ can react with amino acids found in keratin and cause cross linking between the proteins. In other words, ingredients like formaldehyde can cause the keratin within the treatment’s formula to bond with the keratin found in your hair, creating a semi-permanent coating that leaves your hair looking and feeling smoother, as well as reducing any curl in your hair.
Take note that the presence of formaldehyde is a potential health concern, but more about that further down the page.

Keratin treatment vs Brazilian Blowout

You may have been left a bit baffled by the array of Brazilian keratin treatments out there – bear in mind that they’re not all exactly the same, and the trademarked Brazilian Blowout uses a particular method that does vary from other keratin treatments.

Generally the Blowout is a cheaper, faster treatment, that doesn’t claim to loosen curls as drastically as other keratin treatments but does promise to banish frizz. The keratin solution is applied to towel dried hair, which is then blow dried and straightened using hot irons. Unlike standard keratin treatments, instead of leaving the lotion on, the hair is then washed and blow dried into shape again.

So the plus side is that you can generally start styling and washing your hair straight away once the keratin treatment is complete, and it’s a much quicker process that uses a less smelly lotion!

One thing you do need to be aware of is that while you’ll find many a claim that the Brazilian Blowout is formaldehyde-free, this isn’t strictly true, as it does still contain ingredients that create formaldehyde gas when heated. According to this press release, the company are no longer allowed to describe it as formaldehyde-free and need to go further to outline the risks and promote careful use.

Risks and side effects – what’s wrong with formaldehyde?

So I’ve already mentioned the presence of formaldehyde in these Brazilian keratin treatment formulations, and it’s probably one of the biggest concerns linked to the process. Formaldehyde is known to be carcinogenic and, when inhaled, it can pose a serious health risk. Within keratin treatment lotions it’s often been found in far higher concentrations that the recommended safe limit, so you do need to be very careful if you do fancy trying keratin straightening. Adequate ventilation is an absolute must to reduce the potential risks, though you might be wise to give it a miss altogether. Also look out for methylene glycol on the ingredients list, as this releases formaldehyde when heated.

Dangerous fumes aside, the super high heat applied to the hair during the process can cause damage of its own. Although Brazilian keratin smoothing treatments can claim to repair and improve the texture of your hair, there’s no real evidence that it can actually act to improve your hair’s structure rather than just giving it a shiny coating.

Brazilian keratin treatment and black hair

Yes, you can carry out these Brazilian keratin treatments on black hair – the process can loosen curls and is gaining popularity as a gentler alternative to traditional chemical relaxers. That said, although the chemicals used in keratin hair treatments aren’t as harsh as those found in relaxers, the process as a whole – with its harsh tugging and super hot irons – isn’t exactly the kindest option for your hair. Black hair tends to be fairly delicate, so think carefully before booking yourself in for a keratin treatment.

So overall, is it worth experimenting with a Brazilian keratin hair treatment to tame your frizz? Well, there’s no doubt that there are plenty of happy customers out there who can’t believe how they managed to put up with their frazzled locks pre-treatment.

But – do beware of bold claims before hitting the salon. There’s no evidence that keratin hair treatments actually improve the health of the hair, though they may well give its appearance a helping hand. OK, they won’t subject your hair to the same chemical thrashing as permanent straightening treatments, but the potential heat damage and very real risk of exposure to formaldehyde fumes makes it worth thinking twice before taking the plunge.

Have you tried a Brazilian keratin treatment? How did you find the results? Drop me a comment to let me know!

Burgundy hair color and your skin tone

© Patrizia Tilly – Fotolia.com

First thing’s first – if you want to experiment with any new hair color, it pays to pick a shade that will flatter your complexion rather than fighting against it. A good hair color will make your skin tone sing, while the wrong choice can simply make you look ill – not a strong look! Not everyone can pull off burgundy, it’s a shade that tends to flatter cool, blue based skin tones over warmer complexions with yellow undertones.

Deep burgundy shades can also be too dark if you’ve got very pale skin and can leave you looking washed out, so it pays to try some burgundy accents before opting for a whole head of color if your skin’s on the porcelain side.

Burgundy color on dark skin

I think rich burgundy shades look particularly stunning against darker skin tones. Deep burgundy browns can give a subtle wash of color, while a bright burgundy red against dark skin can make a real style statement- just look at how Rihanna managed to rock her burgundy look (not that she seems to be able to put a foot wrong style-wise).

A few ideas …

Don’t be afraid to experiment and mix it up a bit when it comes to hair color. If you’re feeling brave, be bold and turn up the contrast with blonde and burgundy slices of color.

At the opposite end of the spectrum, a burgundy black or dark burgundy brown color can give a beautiful but subtle glimmer of wine red to already dark hair. A great way to dip your toe into those burgundy waters.

So which burgundy color to choose?

• Revlon Colorsilk in burgundy – this was top-rated by Goodhousekeeping.com in their tests, and was found to give great shine along with grey coverage
• Garnier Nutrisse Permanent Creme Haircolor in deep burgundy – again this has picked up lots of glowing customer reviews. It’s described as easy to use, giving a dark burgundy shade that doesn’t disappear too quickly.

Flattering, striking, generally gorgeous, if you’re itching for your next color change give burgundy a try. Just be aware that all red based shades have a habit of fading particularly quickly, so you may have to keep re-doing your color to keep it looking fresh, especially if you’re dying over blonde hair.

I’ve also found some burgundy red shades just don’t live up to the pictures on the box – I’ve had to use a vibrant pillar box red as a base color in the past to stop burgundy colors looking dowdy over my light hair. And, of course, never forget that patch and skin test before trying any new hair color.

Which burgundy hair colors have you tried and loved? Or perhaps you’ve been left less than impressed – leave me a comment to let me know!

A bit about curly hair

First of all, let’s look at why curly hair sometimes needs careful looking after. There’s no getting away from the fact that the structure of curly hair will always make it prone to frizz and dryness. While sebum, produced within the hair follicles, can easily glide down super straight hair to moisturise its entire length, it generally struggles to work its way down curly hair, leaving it comparatively dry.

On top of this, the outside surface, or cuticle, of your hair is made of overlapping scales that usually lie flat against each other in healthy hair, protecting its core. Curly hair’s natural kinks and waves can sometimes cause rough areas in the cuticle, and these breaks in the protective layer can leave hair prone to moisture loss and other damage.

So, let’s get to the point (I know, it can take a while sometimes) when it comes to caring for curly hair the best products and formulations will:

• moisturise to combat that dryness
• protect your hair from the elements, sealing in moisture
• define those curls to give shape and prevent frizz

As always, there are no one-size-fits-all products out there, what suits you won’t suit everyone. You also don’t need to spend loads to get an effective product, plenty of cheap and cheerful options do just as good a job as the luxury brands. So let’s look at some of products out there that can work wonders on curly hair, from shampoos and conditioners to styling products.

Onto the best hair products for curly hair…

What to look for in your shampoo

OK, let’s start with those cleansing products. As curly hair tends to be dry by nature, adding moisture is key to keep it in prime condition. Try to avoid drying, clarifying shampoos that will only serve to strip out whatever moisture is already present in your curly hair. Instead, look for creamy shampoos with plenty of conditioning ingredients. Shampoos formulated for frizzy hair can be ideal, as these contain loads of nourishing moisturising ingredients as well as film formers that can leave a protective coating on your hair.

Sulfate free shampoos are formulated with gentler detergent ingredients than your bog standard shampoo, so this can make them a good option for curly hair, offering gentler cleansing that avoids drying it out too much.

Shampoo-wise, you might want to try:

• Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo - it’s had some brilliant reviews, its an incredibly moisturising product that’s great for keeping curly hair clean without over drying it.

Conditioners

The next haircare product up is conditioner, an absolute essential for any curly girl or boy if you want to keep your curls manageable and soft. As well as moisturising ingredients, silicones leave a protective layer over the hair and seal in moisture, making them excellent for frizzy, curly hair that’s hard to control in humid conditions. (I know there are plenty who prefer to avoid the ‘cones, though I haven’t read any solid evidence that indicates silicones are actually bad for hair … more about that a bit lower down).

Here are some of the best that are worth checking out:

• AVEDA Damage Remedy Conditioner – this has had loads of good reviews and can help to keep problem curly hair in check, though others found it overly expensive and on the heavy side
• Marco Pelusi Marco Anti-Frizz Leave-In Conditioner – again it’s been found to be great at controlling frizz, though some found it left their hair slightly stiff
• Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner – this range of products have earned themselves brilliant reviews, the conditioner is said to be incredibly moisturising on curly hair, also great to use as a leave-in conditioner in small amounts.

Styling products

Curly hair really cries out for styling products more than any other hair type – the best products can smooth frizzy hair and inject life and shape into your curls.

Serums can work wonders on curly, frizzy hair. They usually contain silicones that form a barrier around the hair, preventing it from absorbing excess moisture in the air as well as adding gloss and shine.

Now, there’s currently a fair bit of anti-silicone feeling out there from those who fear that these ingredients can ultimately suffocate hair, causing it to dry out over time. I haven’t read any real evidence to support this so far, though it’s true that, as most silicones aren’t water soluble, they can start to build up on your hair if you’re washing infrequently or using particularly gentle shampoo formulations.

You may want to try:

• John Frieda Frizz Ease Secret Weapon Flawless finishing Creme – users have said it’s brilliant at taming frizz and defining curls, though can be a bit heavy
• Paul Mitchell Super Skinny Serum – this products has had fantastic reviews, it’s got a lovely smell and light formula, but isn’t cheap, so it may be worth seeing if you’re happy with a cheaper option first.

Natural hair products for curly hair

If you’ve made the decision to try to stick to natural or organic ingredients, there are plenty that have excellent moisturising properties that are worth looking out for in products for curly hair.

Jojoba, honey and vegetable glycerine are humectants, meaning they attract water, helping to lock it within dried out hair. Coconut oil and shea butter can coat and protect dry curly hair, while aloe vera is a fantastic moisturiser. Here are a couple of top rated products:

• Jessicurl Too Shea! Extra Moisturizing Conditioner – an ultra moisturising conditioner with no silicones or sulfates, though it’s heavy formulation weighed down some users’ curls
• Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Conditioner – a thick conditioner that adds loads of moisture to curly hair, though hasn’t always been found to be great at de-tangling

What about fine curly hair?

Of course all curls are not the same, and it can be particularly tricky finding products for fine curly hair. Slap rich, heavy conditioners or styling creams onto fine hair and you can easily end up with lank hair. The best products will be lighter formulations that can define your beautiful curls without weighing them down.

• Curly Hair Solutions Slip Detangler – this leave-in product is an excellent detangler, it’s not rich enough to moisturise all curls but is a great light option for fine hair
• Curly Hair Solutions Curl Keeper – another light product that left a bit of crunch in some users’ curls, but should be worth a try for fine curly hair.

So there you have it, not an all encompassing list by an means but hopefully you’ve now got a better idea of how to pick the best products for your curly hair.

Have you got any holy grail products that your curly hair can’t live without?

How does hair color removal work?

In order to understand how you’re going to remedy that tangerine orange hair, you really need to know a bit about how different hair dyes work.

Permanent hair color contains ammonium, a strong alkaline chemical that’s able to open up the cuticle of the hair, allowing the dye to penetrate deep inside. Hydrogen peroxide is also present – this not only has a bleaching effect on your natural hair color, but reacts with the dye while it’s inside the hair. This causes the dye molecules to swell and basically get trapped within the hair, holding the new color in permanently.

Demi permanent dye contains a weaker alkaline chemical than ammonium, and a weaker concentration of peroxide, so the hair color isn’t able penetrate as deeply into the hair, and it won’t lighten your natural hair color in the same way as permanent colors.

Semi permanent colors don’t use ammonium to open up the outer cuticle of the hair, so dye molecules don’t enter the hair’s core. Instead, dye molecules are smaller so are able to enter the outer layers of the hair, but in turn are washed out relatively easily.

Temporary colors and tints simply coat or stain hair, so tend to be relatively easy to remove.

Getting rid of the color – let the professionals at it

Yes I know, it may not be what you want to hear but I’ve got to start with the sensible advice. Too many chemical processes can really wreak havoc with your hair, I speak from bitter experience on that front. Home coloring is one thing, but color correction can be a tricky business, especially if you’re dealing with anything but gentle tints and temporary colors. Trying product after product in an attempt to remove disastrous or just unwanted color from your hair could just leave you with fried hair that’s still a bizarre color – not good!

An experienced colorist will carry out a thorough consultation, check which chemicals have already been used on your hair and can use the right product to get the job done, with minimal damage.

Home hair color removal

OK, I know, I was a home color fiend myself and I’m sure plenty of you will be keen to sort out your hair woes at home instead of heading to the professionals, so let’s look at the options for home hair color hair removal (carried out at your own risk may I add!)

Let’s start with the gentlest method. It may sound obvious, but repeat shampoos can go a long way to at least fading unwanted hair color, leaving a better base color for you to re-dye over. Shampoos with a high pH work best, as these open up the cuticle of the hair, making it easier for the dye to escape. Try a clarifying shampoo, baby shampoo has also been said to work well.

No, you can’t expect miracles with this method – your jet black hair isn’t going to just shampoo out to reveal your previously platinum locks (sucks, huh?). But you can fade the worst of a shocking hair color – just remember that clarifying shampoo can be drying, so moisturise your hair with plenty of conditioner afterwards.

Which color remover products to try?

If you do want to brave it and try a product formulated for color removal, be realistic with the results you expect. Make sure you choose a product formulated to remove the right type of dye and, no, don’t just chuck away the instructions – it’s important to follow them to the letter.

These products won’t magic back your natural color, but instead can provide a more neutral base color ready to dye over. Remember that if you’ve used a permanent color, your hair may well have been lightened underneath the dye, so your natural color isn’t going to be waiting for you once the dye’s been stripped out.

Also bear in mind that any lightening effect is permanent and can’t be reversed so, if you hate your new brassy blonde locks, I’m afraid you will need to re-color over with a darker shade until the bleach has grown out.

Sulfur based products

There are a number of sulfur based hair color removal products available that don’t contain bleach or ammonia, but instead work by shrinking the dye molecules trapped within your hair, allowing them to escape and wash out. This means they’re a lot gentler on your fragile hair than other bleach based color removers, though can be tough enough to tackle permanent and semi-permanent dyes.

These products can be quite laborious to use, with long soaking times and lots and lots of shampooing. Reading reviews, not everyone’s been happy with the results they’ve achieved, and they can be pretty smelly. That said, there are also plenty of happy customers who’ve found them surprisingly effective. You might want to try:

• Color Oops
• Affinage Eraser
• Color B4

And the rest?

Some other color removal products can contain bleach, so although they can give more dramatic results, they may well end up lightening your natural hair as well as frazzling it. Effasol, L’oreal ColorZap are popular products, but be wary of using them if you’re not after a bleached effect.

Getting rid of black hair dye

As you can imagine, it’s no easy feat if you decide you’ve had enough of the black, and color removal kits alone may not be enough to do the job. I have heard bleach baths recommended, where you soak your hair in a very low concentration of bleach to (relatively) gently lift the worst of the color out. I’ve actually tried this out myself when I was desperately trying to banish the last traces of red hair dye (notoriously difficult to remove). I must say it did work pretty well, though whenever there’s bleach involved there’s risk of real damage.

If you’re having a nightmare with your hair color, don’t despair – there are plenty of ways to salvage a bad dye job! The best advice will always be to get thee to a salon and get it sorted by the professionals. Failing that, always try the gentlest possible option – color removal products can be pretty hardcore, so try at your own risk and - always - remember that all important strand and patch test first.

So have you had any hair color mishaps? Did you head to a salon, or have you had success with DIY products? Let me know what worked best for you!

Hair repair facts

I’ve looked for miracle hair repair products, believe me, and the truth of the matter is that very few products out there today can actually act to repair damaged hair. The only living part of your hair is within the hair follicle, the strands you can see are dead, so incapable of regenerating to ‘heal’ and fix damage inflicted through heat or chemical damage.

Most of the products out there that claim to repair hair tend to act more by disguising damage or coating the hair to protect it, smoothing it and helping to prevent further damage. This is all good stuff, frazzled hair benefits from excellent conditioning after all, but it pays to be aware that a lot of their ingredients aren’t much different to your standard conditioner.

© detailblick – Fotolia.com

So what are the best hair repair products available?

OK, so if we’re talking about repairing those all too common split ends, you’ll be pleased to hear that there is a new technology out there that can really help to repair them. It’s only a temporary fix, the only permanent way of getting rid of them is to get out the scissors, but a polyelectrolyte complex (or PEC) has been shown to have amazing effects on those tatty split ends.

How does it work? Well, positively and negatively charged ions exist within the complex, and this charge means that they stick not only to each other but to the hair itself. In fact, the complex doesn’t just coat the outside of the hair as traditional conditioners do, the PEC molecules are able to attach themselves to protein and other molecules within the hair, locking onto damaged areas. When blow dried, the split ends are pulled together and fused in place until the next wash. So no, it’s not a permanent solution and you may find that a quick trim does the job quite nicely thank you very much.

It’s pretty impressive stuff though – if you want to give it a try, a few products on the market are using this technology including these below. Look out for Polyquaternium-28 and PVM/MA Copolymer on the ingredients list:

• Nexxus Pro-Mend Conditioner Split End Binding
• Joico K-Pak Reconstruct Split End Mender
• Tresemme Split Remedy Conditioner.

So how else do hair repair treatments work?

Although they’re not going to perform miracles, products that claim to repair damaged hair can often work to improve its texture and appearance.

Moisture

When it comes to repairing and protecting damaged hair, moisture is key. Damaged hair is often left brittle, dry and straw-like so needs plenty of conditioning ingredients to help smooth its outer surface and replace lost moisture. Look out for humectants like panthenol and glycerine on the ingredients list – these bind to the hair and attract moisture to them, very handy for water deprived hair.

Silicones and sealants

Ingredients like silicones coat and protect the hair – instead of attracting moisture like humectants, they repel it and act as a barrier, preventing further moisture loss from within the hair. Dimethicone is one of the most commonly used silicones, though it can cause a build up on hair if it isn’t washed out thoroughly, so some people find it too heavy.

Coconut oil can also help to protect damaged hair by penetrating deep into the core of the hair and preventing excess water absorption that can leave hair weak and prone to breakage when wet.

Protein

Hair is made mostly of keratin, a certain type of protein. You’ll probably have seen plenty of hair repair products out there that contain protein of one type or another, claiming that they can patch up and heal your damaged hair. Hydrolised proteins in particular crop up on the ingredients lists of repair treatments – these are protein chains that have been chopped up into smaller molecules and it’s said that this makes them small enough to be absorbed into the core of the hair. But do these protein repair products really work?

There just isn’t much evidence out there to show that applying protein to hair can actually patch up its structure to counteract damage, though some proteins are able to coat the hair to improve its texture and appearance. I’ve tried a number of protein rich repair treatments on my chemically damaged hair, and in my own experience I found it impossible to tell how much difference they really made in comparison to other conditioners, and whether it was really the protein or other ingredients at work.

So if you, like me, have blasted or processed the life out of your hair and are desperate for a miracle hair repair product that can reform it and leave it good as new, you may be a little disappointed. But take comfort in the fact that there are plenty of good products out there containing conditioning ingredients that can go a long way to improving the appearance of dry, damaged hair, injecting moisture, improving strength and protecting it from further damage until your shiny new damage free hair grows through!

As always, what suits one person won’t always suit everybody, so there’ll probably be a fair bit of trial and error when it comes to seeking out the top hair repair product for you. Just be wary of misleading claims and remember that you don’t necessarily need to pay top dollar to get an effective conditioning treatment. A few ‘repair’ products with good customer feedback you may want to try out:

• TRESemme Vitamin B12 & Gelatin Anti-Breakage Conditioner
• Carol’s Daughter Monoi Repairing Hair Mask
• Joico K-PAK Deep Penetrating Reconstructor Treatment

Have you tried out any of this new wave of PEC split end treatments? Maybe you’ve tried a hair repair product that left your hair looking and feeling great? Please let me know!

What causes the frizz?

To help understand the tools you’ll need to tackle it, you should understand what causes frizz.

Firstly, curly hair is always going to be more prone to frizz due to the uneven shape of the hair follicle. Having dry hair can also lead to bad attacks of the frizz. The outer surface of the hair is made of cuticle layers that overlap each other like scales. In dry, damaged hair these layers can be left rough and uneven, so instead of smooth, shiny looking strands of hair, the rough cuticle surface can leave hair looking frazzled and less able to lock moisture within the hair.

And then there are the pesky weather conditions that can make a bad hair day even worse – we all know what happens to frizz-prone hair in humidity! But why? A couple of reasons – the core of the hair is made of two different types of protein that absorb water at different rates so, when hair takes on moisture from the air, this action can lead to uneven kinks and curls.

Hydrogen bonds also exist within the hair and help to form its structure. These bonds are fairly weak, so are broken when exposed to moisture, but reform when the hair is dry. This is why you can set your hair into a shape temporarily by blow drying or shaping from wet – once the hair’s dry, the reformed bonds help to hold it in its new style. Unfortunately once moisture sneaks its way back into your hair, the bonds will be broken down again and your ever so carefully styled hair will drop or, if you have hair like mine, inflate to a frankly alarming size.

Three key tips to picking the best shampoo to beat the frizz

1. Check the pH

Hair naturally has a pH level of around 5, but when this rises and it starts to get more alkaline, the outer cuticle can open up. For smoother, shiny looking hair you really want to balance this out with a slightly acidic shampoo that will help keep your hair cuticle flat. Conditioning agents that soften the hair are often alkaline, so it can be a bit of a balancing act to leave your hair in prime condition, but generally the best shampoo for frazzled, frizzy hair will have a low pH and contain acidic ingredients.

2. Moisture, moisture, more moisture

Dry hair is particularly susceptible to frizz, as it desperately sucks up any moisture it finds in the atmosphere, so keeping your hair moisturised is key. The best shampoo for dry, damaged frizzy hair will often contain humectants. These are ingredients added to shampoo that attract moisture and can bond to your hair, helping to lock in water during shampooing. Panthenol and glycerine are a couple of humectants to look out for on the ingredients list.

Humectants won’t always solve your frizz woes though – as Tonya from NaturallyCurly.com explains, their water attracting properties that can work so wonderfully at moisturising your hair can turn against you in areas with very high humidity, pulling moisture from the air into dry hair and leaving it more frizzy then ever! So just be aware that different environmental conditions can call for different shampoo ingredients to keep the frizz tamed. Natural moisturising ingredients like jojoba and coconut oil are often found in shampoo formulated for dry frizzy hair and can work really well at giving hair a moisture boost.

3. Protecting the hair – silicones

A sometimes controversial ingredient, this one. At the opposite end of the scale from humectants (that attract moisture) are ingredients like the silicones, that repel water. And why can silicones be great in shampoo for damaged, frizzy hair? They basically form a barrier that stops too much moisture from escaping dry hair, and also prevents thirsty hair from sucking up water from the atmosphere that can ruin your carefully styled ‘do.

There are plenty of scare stories about silicones pretty much suffocating hair, leaving it incredibly dry with prolonged use, so some choose to avoid products containing “cones”. Which is fine, it’s a personal choice, but there’s no real evidence to say that silicones are harmful to hair. Yes, their anti-humectant nature means a lot of them aren’t water soluble, so these types of ingredients can have a tendency to build up on the hair over time, leaving it heavy and flat, but most standard shampoo is capable of easily getting rid of any residue.

My frizzy hair seems to need silicones to keep it in check, so I personally tend to lean toward the ‘cones in my shampoo. Dimethicone is probably the most widely used and heaviest silicone used in shampoo, but lighter variations are being developed that are water soluble.

A gentler option – sulfate free

A lot of frizz sufferers claim that the best shampoo for curly or wavy, frizzy hair has to be sulfate free. These shampoos don’t contain sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laurel sulfate or other related sulfate ingredients –  alkaline detergent ingredients very commonly used in standard shampoo that are relatively harsh and can be drying on hair. It’s true that these formulations are usually gentler on hair, so can be great for very dry hair and good for helping to moisturise and keep curls and waves defined.

With more and more sulfate free options springing up all the time, it could be worth giving them a try, though if you do use lots of styling products, these shampoos aren’t always tough enough to get rid of any build up, so aren’t suited to everyone.

Some shampoos that have got the thumbs up for keeping frizzy hair in check:

• John Frieda Frizz-Ease Curl Around Style-Starting Daily Shampoo
• Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo
• Aussie Moist Shampoo
• Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo
• Shampoo for Dry Hair: Kerastase Bain Satin 1, 2 or 3

Why is my hair so oily?

First of all, it’s not the hair itself that produces oil – a lubricant called sebum is produced from within the hair follicles on your scalp. This then works its way down the hair shaft to help maintain your hair, keeping it nourished and protected. All perfectly natural stuff … unfortunately, in the same way that some people end up with oilier, problem skin on their faces, your sebaceous glands may be a little overactive and produce excess sebum, leaving your hair looking lank and oily pretty quickly after each wash.

So how do I choose a shampoo to keep my oily hair in check? 

It’s definitely worth looking out for a good shampoo formulated specifically for oily hair. If you check out the ingredients lists (I know, fun times) you’ll see that they often contain either astringent herbs or citrus extracts. These ingredients are slightly acidic and can help to break up excess oil, helping the detergents within the shampoo to do a thorough job of cleansing. Good news for greasy hair.

It’s also best to look out for clear shampoos, as these are usually free of additional conditioning ingredients that can be great for dry, damaged hair, but just too much if you’re trying to keep the grease at bay.

But I have oily hair and a dry scalp – which shampoo is best for me?

If your scalp doesn’t actually tend to get oily, it’s worth thinking about whether excess styling products are building up on your hair, rather than your oily woes being down to overactive sebaceous glands. A good clarifying shampoo has a stronger detergent action so, when used every now and then, could be the answer to keep your hair looking and feeling fresh.

On the other hand, a very flaky, scaly scalp and oily hair could be a sign of seborrhoeic dermatitis (that’s dandruff to you and me), so try a specially formulated dandruff shampoo for oily hair to help ease your poor scalp and thoroughly cleanse your hair. Neutrogena T/Sal (that contains salicylic acid that helps to get rid of excess oil) has been shown to give good results, and Head and Shoulders also have a dandruff shampoo formulated specifically for oily hair.

What if I have thin, lifeless oily hair?

Greasy hair is a pain at the best of times, but if you’ve got thin, flat hair it can be a nightmare trying to keep it from looking stringy. Again, a clarifying shampoo will do a thorough job of removing traces of oil and styling products so can help to keep your hair squeaky clean, though will be too harsh to use every day. Although you might be tempted by volumizing, thickening shampoos, it’s probably best to give these a wide berth if you’ve got oily locks, as they usually leave a coating on hair to give a thickening effect and could end up making your hair look greasy even more quickly.

For touch ups, dry shampoo is your friend – I love dry shampoo for pure convenience, and it’s brilliant for adding volume to otherwise flat and lifeless hair.

Is there a sulfate free shampoo to tackle my oily hair?

If you’ve got sensitive skin, you may be trying to stick to sulfate free shampoo to avoid any potential irritation. The good news is that there are a good number of sulfate free shampoos out there formulated for oily hair – they rely on natural grease-cutting ingredients like herbs and citrus extracts instead of strong detergents to do the cleaning, so try them out to see what results you get.

Just bear in mind that it’s the sodium lauryl sulfate in shampoo that acts as the detergent in standard shampoo, so although plenty of people love their sulfate free formulations, others report that their hair just doesn’t feel as clean afterward, and this could be a real problem if your hair gets oily quickly.

So if you’ve got oily hair, there are plenty of shampoos out there formulated to beat the grease and leave you with super clean, shiny locks. Just keep a look out for astringent ingredients, try to stick to clear shampoo without added conditioners and make sure you’re using a formula that will soothe your scalp as well as keeping your hair looking healthy.

Have you found the perfect shampoo to keep your oily hair in check?

What is sulfate free shampoo?

Most standard shampoos contain the detergent sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) – it’s a cheap detergent, used in many other cleaning products, and also helps to create that rich, foaming lather that we’ve come to expect from our shampoo. Recently though, there have been concerns about its safety that have made people wary about buying products that contain it. SLS is an irritant and there is evidence to show that it can aggravate sensitive skin with prolonged exposure. Alongside this, there have been claims that SLS is overly harsh on hair, stripping it of essential oils, drying it out and fading hair dye prematurely.

So now you’ll find a whole host of sulfate free shampoos on the shelves, with brands fighting it out to prove that their shampoo is kinder and gentler to your hair. But ..

Is sulfate free really better?

Though it’s true that SLS is accepted as a potential irritant with prolonged exposure, there’s no evidence to suggest that its use in shampoo is harmful. There’s certainly no evidence to suggest it’s cancer causing, despite the claims you may read, and no, there are no reliable studies to show that sulfate free shampoo will keep your color treated hair looking fresher for longer.

In fact, you may find that washing with a sulfate-free shampoo leaves your hair feeling a bit heavy and dull – it is meant to be gentler on your hair, but some have found that hair just doesn’t feel … clean clean. And washing your hair without working up the bubbly froth that sodium lauryl sulfate creates may take a bit of getting used to.

That said, if you do have sensitive skin it may be worth your while checking out some sulfate free brands to see if they do make a difference. There are plenty out there to choose from, whether you’re after volumizing or clarifying shampoo, or perhaps want something formulated for curly or fine hair. As always, different hair types aren’t necessarily going to react the same way to the same product, so the best sulfate free shampoo for one person isn’t going to suit everyone. It’ll be a matter of trial and error, as always, to see what works for you.

Where to buy it

So many brands are getting in on the act, it’s not hard to get your hands on a shampoo that’s free of SLS. Everyday brands like TIGI and L’oreal have their own sulfate free ranges, though you may find yourself paying over the odds if you want a premium, organic product.

When it comes down to it, sulfate free shampoo may be hot news but it doesn’t necessarily live up to its claims. Don’t be scared into paying more to avoid the SLS, but if you think your hair needs a gentler touch or think your shampoo may be aggravating your skin, trying out a sulfate free alternative may well suit you.

Nioxin scalp treatment – the lowdown

Nioxin’s products are all geared towards improving and maintaining the health of the scalp in order to create a better environment for hair growth, rather than being formulated to treat the hair alone. The Nioxin scalp treatment is actually the third step of their Thinning Hair System kit, and is a daily use leave-in treatment applied to damp hair, designed to be used after their cleanser and conditioner.

The Nioxin scalp treatment range

There are actually eight (yes, eight!) different Nioxin kits available with different product combinations and scalp treatment formulations depending on your hair type:

Nioxin System 1: For normal to thinning, fine hair

Nioxin System 2: For fine, noticeably thinning hair

Nioxin System 3: For normal to thinning, fine, chemically treated hair

Nioxin System 4: For noticeably thinning, fine, chemically treated hair

Nioxin System 5: For normal to thinning, medium to coarse, natural hair

Nioxin System 6: For noticeably thinning, medium to coarse natural hair

Nioxin System 7: For normal to thinning, medium to coarse, chemically treated hair

Nioxin System 8: For noticeably thinning, medium to coarse, chemically treated hair

So what are the claims?

Nioxin say that their products are formulated to thoroughly cleanse and remove any excess build up of sebum and DHT on the scalp – their scalp treatment is meant to help prevent further build up between washes and to nourish the scalp to “encourage an optimal scalp environment” and help promote stronger and thicker looking hair.

It’s important to note that Nioxin doesn’t claim its products will stop hair loss or increase hair re-growth – so unfortunately their thinning hair system kit isn’t going to be the miracle cure for your hair loss woes.

“But … it washes increased levels of DHT from the hair and scalp, and DHT is a major culprit when it comes to hair loss, so that’s got to be good .. right?!” Nioxin’s statements can be a bit misleading – yes, it’s true that the hormone DHT is thought to be a major factor in male pattern baldness – testosterone can be converted into DHT which fights hair follicles, shrinking them and leading to hair growing back weaker and eventually not at all.

The products that actually do have a proven affect on hair growth are drugs that inhibit the production of DHT, rather than just washing away deposits found in the sebum on the scalp as Nioxin does. In fact, any standard shampoo will do the same and there’s no evidence that washing excess DHT from the scalp has any real effect on hair loss.

So is Nioxin worth buying if you’ve got thinning hair?

It really depends on the results you’re hoping for. Let’s forget about increased hair growth, as Nioxin doesn’t claim to be able to grow you new hair – you’re much better off looking into Minoxidil or Finasteride (Propecia) that are proven to be effective.

Nioxin scalp treatment is promoted as a product that can help give you thicker looking hair, and in many customer reviews it has been found to give hair extra body, the appearance of fullness and, in some cases, an apparent reduction in hair breakage. The Beauty Brains conclude that as the scalp treatment contains proteins and film formers that coat the hair, it’s probably this coating that helps to give the impression and feeling of improved body. Just don’t be fooled into thinking the scalp treatment will actually promote new hair growth. It’s then up to you to decide whether you feel the merits of the Nioxin products are worth the high price tag.

Are there any negatives to be aware of?

First off, if nothing else, succumbing to the allure of Nioxin treatments will hit your wallet hard – they’re not cheap for daily-use products! But seriously, not everyone’s had great experiences using Nioxin scalp treatment. There are reports from some of seemingly increased hair loss, though Nioxin do state that increased hair drop when starting to use their products is usually just down to natural hair shedding, as their cleansers wash away excess sebum and release hairs otherwise trapped in clogged hair follicles. Do make sure you stop using their products straight away and check in with your doctor if increased hair loss continues beyond a couple of weeks though.

Other customers report flat, stiff feeling hair after use, or redness of the scalp and irritation. Actually some of Nioxin’s products contain Niacin (Vitamin B3) that can increase blood circulation, giving you temporarily flushed skin and sometimes a tingly feeling (invigorating for some, more of an irritant for others).

So there you have it, Nioxin scalp treatment can’t grow you new hair, though you may be pleased with the way it leaves your hair looking and feeling.

Have you been impressed or perhaps disappointed after trying out any Nioxin products? Please let me know your thoughts!

What is the best hair straightener for my hair type?

If you have thick hair, you might want to consider hair straighteners with wide plates, to straighten out more hair with each stroke than conventional straighteners. This will save you time and effort in getting those beautiful silky, smooth locks.

If your hair is really quite wavy or curly, it’s going to need more heat to get it poker straight and keep it that way. You’ll need to look for straighteners with a high maximum heat setting. If you have frizzy hair, you may find that steam-straighteners can encourage the frizz, so you may want to avoid these.

If your hair is already damaged through colouring or processing, it’s wise to choose straighteners with an adjustable temperature control. Without this, you’ll be inflicting the full heat of 200 degree-plus straighteners on your hair each time you style it with them. Straightening will cause damage, but with a temperature control you can make sure you only get them as hot as needed for each area of hair to be straightened.

If your hair is fine and already quite straight and you want a hair straightener mainly for touch-ups, the best straighteners for you will have an adjustable temperature control. This way you can make sure that you set the maximum temperature to avoid causing your hair extra unnecessary damage.

Home or away? Travel hair straighteners

Where are you going to be using your hair straighteners? If you’re going to be just using them at home, then standard hair straighteners with a cord should be fine. Do remember to check the length of the electrical cord though, if there isn’t a plug socket very near your mirror. Otherwise you may find yourself in all sorts of awkward and uncomfortable poses trying to see what you’re doing while straightening, if the cord turns out to be quite short! Cordless straighteners would be another good option if plug sockets are in limited supply.

If you can see yourself needing to straighten your hair on the move, or you do a lot of travelling and want beautiful straight hair wherever you go, it’s worth considering travel straighteners. You can buy portable straighteners that are just smaller and slimmer than usual, all the better for tucking into your handbag or suitcase. Or you can buy cordless re-chargable hair straighteners, that take up a lot less space in your bag and you can use them freely without having to be near a plug socket. Cordless types could be the best hair straightener for you if you’re going travelling and aren’t sure if you’ll have access to power or have limited space in your suitcase. They’re also great for tucking into your handbag to give neat, straight hair as and when you need it.

Ceramic or tourmaline hair straighteners?

Ok, you may have you’ve sussed out your hair type, but if you want to find the best hair straightener for you, you’ll need to look at the various features on offer from the mountains available out there. Keep reading for a bit of an explanation of the main materials/features to look out for.

Ceramic plates

Hair straighteners often have ceramic or ceramic-coated plates (solid ceramic being higher quality). In comparison to cheaper, metal plates, ceramic plates heat up faster, hold a more even temperature and are microscopically smoother, meaning less snagging and pulling on your hair as you straighten – good news for your hair! They also heat the whole of the hair rather than just scorching the outer layer. Be aware that cheaper, coated plates can be prone to chipping and don’t tend to do such a good job as solid ceramics.
Ceramic plates also create negative ions which, again, are good for creating lustrous, shiny looking hair, but more about that a bit further down.

Tourmaline plates

There are more and more hair straighteners with tourmaline plates coming onto the market. You may be asking “why should I choose tourmaline plates over other materials?”. Well, tourmaline is actually a gemstone that can be ground down and infused onto ceramic plates. Importantly if you want lovely smooth, hair, tourmaline produces loads more negative ions than ceramic plates, and also produces “far infrared” (FIR) rays.

What are the benefits of negative ions and FIR rays in straighteners?

I’ll try to keep the science-talk to a minimum, but ions are atoms or molecules that are charged. It’s thought that negative ions have many beneficial functions (they’re used in air purification amongst other things and there are various claims made about the health benefits of negative ions). A hair straightener that can produce these can neutralise positive ions within your hair, and this is said to combat static and help to restore moisture into the hair shaft. The end result is shinier, more healthy looking locks.

FIR (far infrared) rays use longer wavelengths to penetrate the hair from the inside out. This means that the hair is heated up much faster and when used in straighteners means a healthier and kinder type of heating, rather than just frazzling the outside of the hair shaft.

Hopefully this has given you some useful information to make sense of the claims and choose the best hair straightener for you!